Monday, March 31, 2008

Unselfish about their shellfish


I recently ate dinner execute by Slow Food RI and hosted by New Rivers restaurant off Steeple St. in Providence. For those who don't know Slow Food USA, "envisions a futurefood system that is based on the principles of high quality and taste, environmental sustainability, and social justice – in essence, a food system that is good, clean and fair." This particular meal was memorable, beyond the fact that New Rivers is a consistently well received establishment, but because the "theme" of the dinner was shellfish all harvested from the waters of New England. It was delightful to see these products, many locally harvested or produced, being brought together in a unique and harmonious concert of courses, flavors and textures.

I went with two of my co-workers, who enjoyed the meal as well, especially the wine pairing. They are both very passionate about the use of local and sustainable products used in food service. So, I was in good company.

The first course was raw seapowet oysters. Delicious!

Second, we had a salad of warm grilled squid over local greens with rose vinaigrette and charred pink grapefruit. I really like the charred grapefruit, I only wish I'd gotten more in my salad. C'est la vie.

Next, a stylized po'boy sandwich with Rhode Island scallops and crispy slow roasted pork belly. I wish I had a camera, the plate presentation was excellent. I thoroughly enjoyed the scallops and the pork but alas wanted more bite in my horseradish aioli.

Then, the braised Narragansett little necks with kale, white beans and chorizo chips. Wow! After one chip I thought that was good after two I was hooked. Coupled with the little necks and the beans, this had to have been my favorite dish. I'll say it again, Wow!

Following, was the grilled Point Judith lobster served on a Plum Point oyster pot pie with tarragon-cognac butter. An elegant dish and definitely a nice presentation but I think some of its subtleties were lost after the previous dish's exuberance.

Finally, the blood orange and campari sorbet with warm madeleines. An excellent finish, because its' light and palate cleansing properties help lessen the veil of excessive eating of delicious foods.

To everyone involved in the dinner, Bravo! It makes me miss the years I spent in restaurants and envy the level of creative adrenaline you must get from dinners like these. If you ever need a hand let me know and I'll do what I can. Until then, just let me know where they are and I'll be forced to enjoy a spectacular dinner!

2 comments:

John Maeda said...

I love blood oranges in salads as an incredible color accent.

Also I was with a famous chef recently who said he didn't really belief in all the wine pairings thing. I can see how there are many schools to the interaction with meal/beverage.

JM

Chef Pierre said...

I love wine but pairing it is like saying that you have to have coffee with dessert, it's a justification. Certainly there are some wines that accentuate the flavors of certain foods but it's the food that has to carry itself.